Second entry into 2018 Pattern Review Upcycle Contest

Project date:
May 1, 2018


Pattern Description: 
McCalls 7359
Misses' V-Neck Dolman Sleeve Tops


Pattern Sizing: Y (XS-S-M) 
I made View B in size XS (4-6). I wear a 6 at the neck/bust, an 8 at the waist, and a 10 at the hip. I usually taper up/out to a S (8-10) at the hip line, but I forgot to this time. Luckily the XS had plenty of ease at the hip, and my usual personal hip adjustment turned out not to be necessary. The XS fits beautifully without any fit adjustments at all.



Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? 
Yes. I was using the main pattern photo (view D) as my inspiration piece. I like the colors, and then chose a different view (B) because I liked the curved hem.

Knit on shoulder yoke, main fabric rayon challis. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, although I modified the way the neckbands are done. The reason I use the following technique is because I prefer the interfaced portion of the neckbands be on top (garment's surface), this provides nice crisp bands and thins out some of the bulk (see detail photo). Here is what I did. Start at step 8 in the instructions. Then turn the seam allowance back on the un-interfaced pieces. Sew the right side of the interfaced pieces to the upper front. Continue as per the instructions.

Interior view of neckband details

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love that there are tons of mix and match versions that can be made, and that can grow exponentially by the ways you color block it.


Fabric Used: 
Found a Rayon Challis Hawaiian print XL men's shirt at our local SPCA Thrift Store. I paid $2.00. For my contrast fabric I used a piece of acrylic knit remnant from my stash. The black buttons (5) were also in my stash.

Upcycled Men's Hawaiian "Aloha" Shirt

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made two design changes and one pattern alteration. 

Because the men's shirt did not yield enough "fabric" to make my new top in just the Hawaiian print, I made a color blocked version of View B. I liked the multi-print photo of View D on the pattern cover and used that as my inspiration. 

The second design change I made was to have the front of the men's shirt be the new button-down back of my new top. I took off the masculine buttons and exchanged them for some nice (flat) shiny black buttons from my stash. The one alteration I made (which other reviewers have also mentioned - thank you!) was to lessen the dip in the front hem line. I raised the hem at the center front up 3.5 inches and tapered to nothing at the side seam. This gave the front a more gentle curve. I left the back curve alone.

Added flat buttons to the back

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Absolutely. It was a super quick sew, it was a great pattern when you have limited time or material. You can color block and piece the tops in an almost infinite mix of different color and fabric configurations. 


Conclusion:
I've decided this pattern is as a TNT keeper. It works well with both skirts and leggings. I only paid $1.99 for it on sale so this upcycled top turned out to be a super fun, frugal, custom, sustainable project for only $3.99.

Entry into 2018 Pattern Review Upcycle Contest

Purchased from Fabric Depot in 1996

Project date:
May 1, 2018



Pattern Description: 
Stretch & Sew 451
Slim Skirts



Pattern Sizing:
Hip sizes 32”-48”
I made the 36” hip.







Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? 
No, because I was intentionally going to use this pattern as a base to hack and change from a slim skirt into a button-front slightly A-line skirt. I chose this skirt pattern because I liked the fact that the skirts had pockets.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, although because I was doing my own version, with significant changes, I didn't need to follow most of them. I always read the pattern instructions first even if I may decide later not to follow them exactly. 


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Liked the way they have you create the pocket. It was nice to learn a interesting new, and easy way to create skirt pockets. The instructions have you cut both the skirt and the under pocket the same size at side seam and the hip. You then lay the inside pocket face to face with the skirt. Stitch, and cut away the excess, flip, press, understitch, press again, then topstitch. Easy way to get a pocket edge that lays flat and is reinforced so it won't stretch.


Fabric Used: 
An upcycled Men's Hawaiian print shirt and scraps of blue & white gingham from my stash.  The Men's shirt was an XL but still only yielded a limited amount of “fabric”. Since there was not enough,  I needed just a little more fabric I chose a coordinating blue & white gingham from my stash to cut the interior pockets and the skirt slit facings.

Purchased from the S.P.C.A Thrift Shop 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Because I wanted to use the button front from the men's shirt to be the front opening of an A-line skirt I removed the back kick pleats and the center back seam.

Back view A-line shaping and facing

To flare the skirt only slightly I added 1'' to the width of the front and back skirt pieces at the hem/side seam, tapering to nothing at the waist/side seam. Because the skirt was still tight (think popping buttons if you took a big step) I need to add side slits to allow for movement. I lined the slits with the gingham for a little flash of hidden detail.

There was not enough "fabric" to cut a waistband so I decided to omit it. Instead I created self-facing yoke because it used the least amount of material. This technique uses only a single layer of yoke fabric, which you sew right side to the wrong side of the skirt. You then trim your seam, understitch, and flip the yoke facing to the top. Once topstiched the outside has decorative yoke and the inside has a clean finish.

Interior view pockets and construction details

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, this could be a new skirt template for me. Since the pattern is OOP, for any one else who wants to try this idea, I do recommend that you start from a similar current pattern.


Conclusion:
Will be on the hunt for more challis men's shirts. Can see having a few more of this fun breezy skirt. The shirt was $2.00, the pattern, gingham, and buttons were already in my stash. Great way to make frugal, ecologically sustainable, fun, and totally customized garments for your wardrobe.

Upcycled Hawaiian print skirt with original button front from the men's shirt.